In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the coiffed Californian camp of Ryan Murphy’s The Shards, KATSEYE’s continued reign as the queens of sensory overload brainrot pop, and a new cast of nominatively absurd figures including Igby Rigney, Stella Lefty, Chanty Beluga, and Nimrod Workman. We also ponder Ella Langley as the new poster girl of American alt-lite, and we consider the uncomfortable indignity of life after fleeting virality as illustrated by Jools Lebron and the Love Island USA cast. Perhaps most importantly, we pause to mourn the loss of American Founding Mother and universal aphorist Dolly Parton :( Links:

Dolly Parton and her parents sing “In the Pines” (1976)

“Evening Shade” by Dolly Parton

Dolly Parton last health update vide on Instagram

TikTok #searchfordolly audition videos (exhibit A, exhibit B)

“How ‘The Shards’ Blew Up at HBO — and Ended Up in Ryan Murphy’s Hands” by Benjamin Svetkey in The Hollywood Reporter

Kaia Gerber and Homer Gere shot by Steven Meisel for Vogue September 2026 Cover Story

Kaia Gerber prompts BBL accusations in Alaïa F/W 2026

Kaia Gerber says she had an exorcism performed on her with a didgeridoo

Nymphet Alumni Ep. 6: The Milf-ification of Billie Eilish (Emergency Roundtable)

First look of Billie Eilish as Esther Greenwood on the set of The Bell Jar dir. Sarah Polley

Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone Official Teaser from HBO Max

“Happee Birthdae Harry” merch in the Harry Potter Japan Store

Poppi x RushTok x Love Island USA (exhibit A, exhibit B)

Jools Lebron original GoFundMe video and her Jeffree Star read

KATSEYE (캣츠아이) – “Hootie Frutti” (Official Music Video)

KATSEYE choreographer Grant Gilmore on TikTok

GUI GUI on Instagram

Ella Langley –“Be Her” (Official Music Video)

Ella Langley’s Shiner beer collab party trick

Ella Langley feat. “Stayin’ Alive” by the Bee Gees

“The Untold Story of Sierra Ferrell: Train-Hopping to Stardom” on YouTube

Stella Lefty – “Boston” Review in Pitchfork (“Stick Season” obsession evidence)

Coal miner, union activist, and singer Nimrod Workman performs the traditional Appalachian folk song “Oh Death”

A woman named “Chanty Beluga” introduces herself at a pool party

Evan Lazarus in defense of Chanty Beluga

Bodacious Humphrey Williams

Cristiano Ronaldo and Georgina Rodríguez’s wedding shot by Juergen Teller for Vogue

Hi Nymphies — as summer comes to an end, we’re unlocking an all-time fan favorite: the Loner Girl episode. We hope the Loner Girl, with her layered knits and rich inner world, is a source of back-to-school inspiration as we head into fall.

This week, Alexi is joined by music critic and columnist Ella Dorn to unpack her viral essay declaring Giallobrutalism as the defining visual language of mid-2020s pop, informed by the stylish delirium of Italian giallo cinema and a pervasive unease about surveillance and stardom. We discuss the aesthetic’s formal signatures—cool temperatures, split diopters, painterly tableaux, and more— as well as the rise of early-onset popstar histrionics, the existential glamour of centripetal girls in centrifugal settings, and the decade’s watershed fashion moments so far, from Miu Miu micro-minis to Sandy Liang mega-bows. We also challenge the default Y2K reading of modern pop aesthetics, arguing for a closer look at their 20th-century antecedents, and reflect on our shared past as stans of doomed K-pop girl groups.

Links:

“‘Giallobrutalism,’ or why everything looks like that” by Ella Dorn on Fairyland!

Ella Dorn on Twitter

Fairyland! on Instagram

K-Pop Music Video Analysis w/ Alexi

One on Top of the Other (1969) dir. Lucio Fulci

A Lizard in a Woman’s Skin (1971) dir. Lucio Fulci

“Music, Fashion, Film is Charli xcx at her subversive best” by Ella Dorn in The New Statesman

Balenciaga F/W 2024

Film Noir and the Spaces of Modernity by Edward Dimendberg

“The realities of being a pop star” by Charli xcx on charli’s substack

Ep. 162: Crayola Casual

Ep. 102: Just Dance w/ Lexee Smith

Nicole Kidman wearing Miu Miu S/S 2022 for Vanity Fair’s 2022 Hollywood Issue cover

Sandy Liang S/S 2024

Our Aesthetic Categories: Zany, Cute, Interesting by Sianne Ngai

“In Defense of the Leopard Print Midi Skirt” in Paper magazine (the original @leopardmidiskirt Instagram account is GONE omg)

New Giallobrutalist canon entries we discuss: YENA (최예나) – “캐치 캐치 (Catch Catch)”, aespa 에스파 – “Switchblade (Feat. Ty Dolla $ign)”, Gracie Abrams – “Look at My Life”, ifeye (이프아이) – “r u ok?” , aespa エスパ – “KISS N TELL”

Bang Jae Yeob

LOONA/ODD EYE CIRCLE – “Sweet Crazy Love” (Official Music Video)

LOONA/Kim Lip – “Eclipse” (Official Music Video)

The iconic abandoned Brutalist building from every K-pop MV

Ghosts of My Life: Writings on Depression, Hauntology and Lost Futures by Mark Fisher

Federico Fellini: Painting in Film, Painting on Film by Hava Aldouby

no na - “honk!” (Official Music Video)

no na - “superstitious” (Official Music Video)

Elliot Shields on Instagram (creative consultant on Aespa’s “Kiss N Tell”)

Magic by Jolin Tsai 蔡依林

但是又何奈 by Louise Tsuei 崔苔菁

Rocket Girls 101 (火箭少女101) K-pop plagiarism overview

KiiiKiii on Instagram

In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the questionable decisions behind the scenes of the Possession remake, the historical accuracy cottage industry reactivated by the release of The Odyssey, the latest in infidelity surveillance via Jay Guapo, and new releases from Adela, Tyla, and KATSEYE. We also highlight a recent cornucopia of Euroweird excellence from the Depardieu family’s blissful film festival outing to the fabulous brainrot opera debut of Beata Mona-Lisa, Greta Thunberg’s perplexingly buxom sister— plus we react to fashion announcements including Marine Serre’s bankruptcy and the upcoming John Galliano–themed Met Gala.Links:

Margaret Qualley and Callum Turner on the set of the Possession remake in New Jersey

Julie Depardieu and Philippe Katerine pose with their 2 sons Billy and Alfred at the Monte Carlo Television Festival (Alexi’s viral QRT)

Billy Blanchard at Jean-Paul Gaultier F/W 2026 Couture via Lyas

“EXCLUSIVE: Marine Serre Seeks Investor Amid Financial Restructuring” in WWD

The Met Announces the Spring 2027 Costume Institute Exhibition, John Galliano: Horizons

“John Galliano Returns to Fashion Via a Creative Partnership with Zara” in Vogue

“An Uncomplicated Man” (review of Christopher Nolan’s The Odyssey) by Emily Wilson in The London Review of Books

Millie Bobby Brown responds to bad wig accusations on BBC Radio 1

@chthonicthorn on TikTok (Hellenistic practicioner?)

“Greta Thunberg’s Sister Beata Mona-Lisa Does the Splits” by Billy Parker in Interview

Beata Mona-Lisa on Instagram

Pianist Yuja Wang

Nymphet Alumni Ep. 114: Grisch

“The Folk Singer Linda Perhacs Is Found and Is Safe, Authorities Confirm” in The New York Times

Tyla - “THAT GIRL” (Official Music Video)

Nymphet Alumni Ep. 147: Cherry Emoji Dark Feminine

Tyla in custom Phoebe Pendergast polka dot hair clip at Disney with Kai Cenat

“Valley of the Marc Jacobs Dolls” by Carwyn McIntyre in ToBe

“The Surreal, Sublime Worlds of Szilveszter Makó” by Lauren Jackson in The New York Times

Adam Green’s Aladdin - Full Movie (Official) on YouTube

KATSEYE (캣츠아이) - “Animal” (Official Music Video)

KATSEYE EP 3 ‘WILD’ (Wild heart ver.) teaser images on Instagram

ADÉLA - “Ain’t In LA” (Official Music Video)

Gabbriette in custom Matières Fécales bridal

Andrea Mauri @babedrea33 on Instagram

“Married elite NYC lawyer, 45, is caught red-handed with underling, 29, in passionate Central Park rendezvous” in The Daily Mail

“How Leopold Aschenbrenner, the ‘golden child’ of the AI trade, was laid low” in The Financial Times

In this episode, the ladies welcome America’s favorite game show host Ben Mora for a survey of the interior design landscape among Millennials and Gen Z. They discuss how bedroom stratigraphy reveals the history of interior design fads, the never-ending influence of the long ‘90s, the tyranny of mid-century modern, blackout curtain pleasure caves, Pinterest boards, the housing crisis, various gay predispositions, and more!

Interior Motives

Seeking Derangements

Ben’s profile in New York magazine!!

Printed out Pinterest Moodboard TikToks

$4,300 in missing rugs, online shame, 7 hours in NYPD custody: A stooping story

Samantha Wynn Greenstone (girl who married a gay guy and had a baby)

BBL Arab Gays

Tasteslop by Nemesis

In this edition of Study Break, we go deep on Sombr’s ED summer track “My Body Isn’t Ready,” make the case for Obsession star Inde Navarette as this generation’s Dead Wife Montage Stacy, and extol Erling Haaland’s universal Homo Erectus charm. We also assess Olivia Rodrigo’s and Gracie Abrams’ claims to girl-loserdom and the influence of children’s literature on men’s fashion week.

Links:

sombr - My Body Isn’t Ready (official video)

James Blunt - You’re Beautiful (official video)

James Blunt’s 13 most savage tweets

Olivia Rodrigo - honeybee

Olivia Rodrigo addresses the “baby boy, honeybee” allegations

Olivia Rodrigo - the cure (official video)

Gracie Abrams - Look at My Life (official video)

Gracie Abrams - Daughter From Hell album art

Grace Abrams - The Secret of Us album art

Dior Men’s Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Celine Men’s Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Prada Men’s Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Worldpeace DMT - Love Yourself (official video)

In this solo minisode, Sam enters the wilderness of mirrors to unpack Michael Jackson: child star, King of Pop, fairy-tale monster, walking logo, and one of the strangest cultural phenomena of the 20th century. Using Margo Jefferson, Wendy Lesser, Mark Fisher, Foucault, Bakhtin, Peter Pan, The Little Prince, Shirley Temple, Diana Ross, Elizabeth Taylor, Bob Fosse, P.T. Barnum, Neverland Ranch, pork pie hats, patent leather shoes, and white spats, Sam pursues Michael as a figure of inversion: the child who was an adult, the adult who became a child, the Black man who became white, the man who became a woman, the innocent who became the guilty. Along the way, she considers the glamour and horror of child stardom, the maternal diva archive, the carnivalesque body, the freakshow of Wacko Jacko, and why Michael’s legacy remains endlessly unresolved.

Stargirl’s 100th episode, we love you Emma

In this episode, we kick off the summer by denominating a colorful attitude toward dress manifesting bicoastally. Epitomized by brands like Emily Dawn Long, Brooke Callahan, and Cleo Camp, Crayola Casual is the funky counterpart to freaky minimalism— accessory agnostic, anti-synthetic, built around hot saturated colors and the art of the easy-on easy-off. We review this aesthetic’s historical antecedents, from fluid disco formalwear of the 70s (Halston, Stephen Burrows) to globalist chic sportswear of the 80s (Esprit, United Colors of Benetton). We also discuss Downtown New York’s Maryam Nassir Zadeh as the missing link, classics of rainbow urbanism including Sesame Street and the Vignelli Subway Map, our predictions for an aerobics renaissance, and the creative exuberance of a season of parades, pop-ups, and pennants.

Links:

Image board

Cleo Camp

Brooke Callahan

Emily Dawn Long

Rummage Stretch

“Vintage Sportswear Will Crush Your Alo Yoga Sets” by Liana Satenstein for Neverworns

Allegra Samsen on Instagram

Ventriloquist Sophie Becker for Paloma Wool

“The Accidental Trendsetter” by Emilia Petrarca in The New York Times (Emily Dawn Long profile)

“The Sisterhood of the Unraveling Pants” by Sarah Shapiro in Puck (on the rise of the easy pant)

“The Sexy Sincerity of Maryam Nassir Zadeh” by Rachel Tashjian in Harper’s Bazaar

“How Does Maryam Nassir Zadeh Stay in Business?” by Madeline Leung Coleman in The Cut

“1970–1979” from FIT’s Fashion History Timeline

“A 1970s Fashion History Lesson: Disco, Designer Denim, and the Liberated Woman” by Lilah Ramzi in Vogue

“The Halstonettes” by The Museum at FIT from the 2015 exhibit Yves Saint Laurent + Halston: Fashioning the 70s

“Stephen Burrows, the CFDA’s 2024 Lifetime Achievement Winner, in the Words of 7 of His Closest Collaborators” by Laird Borrelli-Persson in Vogue

“The Radical History of Sesame Street” by Figgy Guyver in Frieze

“The Quintessential Urban Design of Sesame Street” by Anna Kodé in The New York Times

“Towards a Better Way: The “Vignelli” Map at 50” (Digital Exhibit) – New York Transit Museum

Supergraphic Ultramodern – Consumer Aesthetics Research Institute

“The rise and fall of Esprit, San Francisco’s coolest clothing brand” by Joshua Bote in SFGATE

“opening ceremony’s founders on how esprit changed fashion (and the world)” – i-D

“Esprit’s Brand Books” by Jill Singer in Sight Unseen (on Esprit: The Comprehensive Design Principle from 1989)

“From Plain Jane to Esprit: The Making of a California Icon” by Bertrand Pellegrin

“Benetton: Celebrating a Colorful History” by Amanda Kaiser in WWD

“History” – Gap, Inc.

“Khaki Swing” – 1998 Gap Commercial on YouTube

Something Wild (1986) dir. Jonathan Demme – Official Trailer

Excerpt from Bobos in Paradise: The New Upper Class and How They Got There by David Brooks

“Everything You Need to Know About the Battle of Versailles on the 50th Anniversary of the Event” by Laird Borrelli-Persson in Vogue

“Fashion” - The 1973 World Book Year Book

“Yanks Pull Off Paris Fashion Heist” by Eugenia Sheppard in The Los Angeles Times

Big Bad Wolf workout class on TikTok

Aerobics by Kenneth H. Cooper

エアロピクルス｜Aeropickles on YouTube

“1988 Crystal Light National Aerobic Championship Opening” on YouTube

Audrey Hobert live performances: trenchcoat reveal, mini trampoline

Audrey Hobert x Fishwife Tinned Fish Bundle

“Forget Euro Summer. Brands Are Having a Wet, Hot American Summer” by Madeleine Schulz in Vogue (pop-up economy write-up)

In this episode, Sam is joined by friend of the pod Anika Jade Levy, author of Flat Earth and founding editor of Forever Magazine, for a sprawling investigation into the paranoid spirit of the United States of America. Beginning with the America’s founding fantasy of paradise, Anika and Sam trace how the country’s utopian dream soured into a national aesthetic of suspicion: from Puritan invisible enemies and the feminized conspiracy of the Salem Witch Trials, to the pastoral terror of data centers humming in the American wilderness, to cyberpunk stealthwear, urban camouflage, hollow earths, Atlantis, visions of a lost world, and much, much more. Drawing from Leo Marx, Richard Hofstadter, Adam Curtis, Cotton Mather, Anette Kolodny, Silvia Federici, and Anika’s own novel, the girls move through history, politics, media, and fashion to uncover what conspiracy reveals about American self-invention.

Links:

Anika’s Instagram

Flat Earth by Anika Jade Levy

Forever Magazine

Agens Denis’s A Confrontation: Battery Park Landfil

The Machine in the Garden by Leo Marx

The Paranoid Style in American Politics by Richard Hofstadter

The Lay of the Land by Annette Kolodny

Caliban and the Witch by Silvia Federici

The Significance of the Frontier in American History by Fredrick Jackson Turner

Wonders of the Invisible World by Cotton Mather

The Cultural Cold War by Frances Stonor Saunders

CV Dazzle

Balenciaga Panic of 2022

Lotta Volkova Conspiracy

Data Center Hum on TikTok

Mr. Bean/Princess Diana Reel

The Century of the Self by Adam Curtis

MAGA as Fan Fiction by Gideon Jacobs

Player One and Main Character by Gideon Jacobs

New Models: The Online Marketplace of Ideas with Joshua Citarella

The Gurdjieff Movements

The New Age Bible by Sheila Heiti

In this episode, we’re joined by legendary TikTok creator, Slushy Noobz creative director, and certified #SWAG Dadaism pioneer Chase Rutherford to further interrogate the ideas introduced in our previous episode. We discuss the freedom of default aesthetics and the legacy of normcore, the provocative power of readymades over a century after Fountain, how Kanye anchored the preppy misfit years of Chase’s youth, and how Chase resisted the siren song of LA influencer culture in favor of creative autonomy. We also discuss the art historical impact of Beyoncé and Jay-Z at the Louvre, how Sombr’s personal brand might still be salvaged, and the importance of reframing transient microtrends—from clout goggles to Brazil baby tee—as the significant cultural artifacts of our time.

Links:

Chase Rutherford on Instagram

Chase Rutherford on TikTok

Slushy Noobz on Patreon

Slushy Noobz official merchandise

In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the less-than-triumphant return of Euphoria and Sam Levinson’s pivot to everythingsplotation Western, Michael Jackson’s new hagiography and the grotesque legacy that transcends it, and recent fashioncore highlights from the literalism of the Met Gala to the nostalgia of The Devil Wears Prada 2. We also discuss the Substack truth nuke that rocked the indie music scene, Olivia Rodrigo’s coquette comeback, The Drama’s fresh take on the tribulations of female adolescence, and more.

Links:

Suga Free the Pimp on Instagram

Pimp: The Story of My Life by Iceberg Slim

“Why Is Everything So Ugly?” in Issue 44 of n+1

“Fashion Is Not Art (And That’s OK)” by Valerie Steele in Someone Else

“See Every Look from the Met Gala 2026 Red Carpet” in Vogue

Hudson Williams MUA Aika Flores Pinterest board leak

Hudson Williams heading home at 7am following the Met Gala after party

“Abnormals, Freaks, and Michael Jackson: Foucault, Baldwin, and the Truth of the Grotesque” by Brad Elliott Stone

“Freaks and the American Ideal of Manhood (Here Be Dragons)” by James Baldwin, originally published in Playboy, January 1985

Rabelais and His World by Mikhail Bakhtin

Michael Jackson describes his first sexual encounter with Tatum O’Neal (2003)

Telephone Stories: The Trials of Michael Jackson on Spotify

On Michael Jackson by Margo Jefferson

“Meryl Streep and Anna Wintour on Power, Fashion, and Acting the Part” (April 2026 cover story) by Chloe Malle in Vogue

Synopsis: Innocence by Kaija Saariaho from the Metropolitan Opera

Olivia Rodrigo – drop dead (Official Music Video)

Olivia Rodrigo – begged (Live) on Saturday Night Live

“Fake Fans” by Eliza McLamb in words from eliza on Substack

Nancy Pelosi Endorses Jack Schlossberg For Congress

Acquired Style x Swan Beauty Viral Bachelorette Party

In this episode, we coin a new term for one of the most interesting creative impulses of our generation: #SWAG Dadaism. Like the original Dadaists responding to the whiplash of industrialization and WWI, a certain subset of young creatives are responding to the vertigo of global instability and breathless technological futurism through fashion assemblage, IP maximalism, and a fearless embrace of all things chopped and random. We conduct a historical survey from Clement Greenberg’s theory of kitsch and the avant-garde to the early days of meme culture to explore page fashion parodists of the past decade. We also get into Justin Bieber and Timothée Chalamet’s parallel #SWAG rebrands, the collapse of the secondhand market and its unexpected creative upside, and how #SWAG exists as the antithesis of refinement culture.

Links:

Image board

Dada Manifesto by Tristan Tzara (1918)

“Avant-Garde and Kitsch” by Clement Greenberg from The Partisan Review (1939)

“The First Meme of 2026 Is About Not Explaining Yourself. And Buttons.” by Madison Malone Kircher for The New York Times

Chase Rutherford on Instagram (referenced posts one, two, three)

Chase Rutherford interview for Perfectly Imperfect

@okniceok on Instagram

@kalebphobic on TikTok re: digicore sampling

Canal Street Research Association and Shanzhai Lyric on Instagram

“Bags, Bootlegs and Art: A Quirky Communion on Canal Street” by Siddhartha Mitter in The New York Times

Ava Nirui / @avanope interview in Office magazine (2017)

“Meet Ava Nirui, The Creative Force Behind Marc Jacobs’ Heaven Line” by Eni Subair in Vogue (2020)

“Go To The Thrift Store That’s Where The Heat Is” on Know Your Meme

@harmonytividad “filet minion” post on Instagram

Middle school boy bar crawl on TikTok

Tung Tung Tung Sahur boxers outfit on TikTok

@twylatoktok on TikTok (referenced posts one, two, three)

@turtlewithhat_ / Izzy and Emma pink leggings outfits

In this week’s episode, we’re joined by critical mastermind Caroline Cai (aka Clairolime) to unpack what we’re calling Catalan Chicslop, the downtempo, sophisticated, quietly freaky aesthetic championed by brands like Paloma Wool and Gimaguas. We discuss how this look evolved from avant-basic dopamine dressing, its influences from ‘90s minimalism to early 20th century experimental couture, Barcelona’s history as a modernist aura farm, post-Phoebe Philo feminist-lite brand mythos, and strategies to transcend the tyranny of chicness. We also analyze the aesthetic’s appeal to women across successive life stages, from 13-year-old Penelope Dissick to microinfluencer gallerinas to mysterious pregnant brunettes. Links:

@clairolime on Instagram

Image board

Relevant brands: Paloma Wool, Gimaguas, Susmie’s Collection, Belle Anna, Deiji Studios, Buci, Geel, DémodéMODÉ

“How Spain’s Indie Fashion Scene Nailed Global Growth” in Business of Fashion

“These Brands are Putting Spanish Style on the Map” by Zoe Suen in W

“Paloma Wool: From Cool to Basic and Back Again” by Yola Mzizi in The New York Times

Paintings by Ramon Casas (Ex. 1, Ex. 2, Ex. 3, Ex. 4)

Paloma Wool’s “San Sebastián 2025” campaign featuring Carlotta Baan

“Studio Visit: Paloma Wool” in Sleek magazine (2023)

“Where Are All the Women Designers?” by Emma Childs in Marie Claire

Chicslop runoff examples from Miaou, Frankie’s Bikinis, Guizio, Jaded London, Revolve house brands Lioness and Lovers and Friends, With Jean, UNIFHAIM - Relationships (Official Music Video)

Crumbs from Penelope Dissick’s deleted TikTok photo dump

Emma Chamberlain’s “i got rid of (almost) everything” closet video

“T-boy swag: Claiming space where trans people feel we don’t inherently belong” by Reanna Cruz in NPR

Note from Alexi: I’m sorry I mispronounced Phoebe Philo omg put your chic pewter pitchforks down!!

In this edition of Study Break, the girls review the latest cultural dispatches, including the newest wave of attention-seeking fashion week stunts (from Fakemink at Balenciaga to Bryan Johnson lurking at Matières Fécales), the Buffalo Bill realness of Robert Pattinson and Zendaya’s Interview Magazine cover, Tyra Banks’s wacky legacy, Hillary Clinton’s bleach-and-tone, the rise of Wuthering Heights womanslop, and more!

Links:

Fakemink for Dazed

Brian Johnson for Fecal Matter in Paris

Robert Pattinson and Zendaya for Interview Magazine

Jim Carrey Clone Allegations

Alexis Stone Jim Carrey Prank

Punch the Monkey

In this week’s episode, we discuss Romantasy, the Franken-genre that has conquered the publishing world and defined the libidinal landscapes of a generation of women. We decode the genre’s DNA from dimestore bodice-rippers to high fantasy epics, examine the sociological profile of its authors and audiences, and explore how it’s mutated in the digital age via AI visualizers and high-budget audio erotica. We also talk about Renaissance faires, fujoshi discourse, the mirror image of male vs. female gooning in popular culture, Emerald Fennell’s Wuthering Heights as the BookTok movie of the century, and more. Links: Image board

Sam’s Romantasy Spotify Playlist

“Did a Best-Selling Romantasy Author Steal Another Writer’s Story?” by Katy Waldman in The New Yorker

“She Fell in Love With ChatGPT. Then She Ghosted It.” (r/MyBoyfriendIsAI profile) by Kashmir Hill in The New York Times

“Gender difference in brain activation to audio-visual sexual stimulation” by Chung et. al. in PubMed

“Sexual Scripts: Permanence and Change” by William Simon and John H. Gagnon in Archives of Sexual Behavior, Vol. 15, No. 2

“How the Renaissance Fair became America’s favorite fantasy” by Kelly Faircloth in National Geographic

r/AskAHistorian discussions about medievalism and high fantasy (one, two, three)

The Oxford Handbook of Victorian Medievalism ed. Joanne Parker and Corinna Wagner

Hard to Be a God (2013) dir. Aleksei German

Candlelight Ecstasy Romance Guidelines c. 1980

Love Story magazine ed. Daisy Bacon (1921–1947) (see covers here)

“The Uses of Reading Mass-Produced Romance Fiction” (Harlequin study) by Susan B. Neuman (1985)

History of the “sex and shopping” genre by Pascal Tréguer

“Girls Who Love Boys Who Love Boys” by E. Alex Jung in Vulture

Interview with Quinn founder and CEO Caroline Spiegel in Refinery29

“Aural Fixation: Celebrity Audio Erotica Is 2025’s Answer to the Centerfold” by Hannah Jackson in Vogue

“The Importance of Critical Thinking in a Zombiefied World” (Why romantasy is crucial to understanding Apple TV’s hit show Pluribus) by Maris Kreizman in The Atlantic

“Liking Books is Not a Personality” by Hannah McGregor in Electric Literature

@shauna_the_author on Instagram

In this week’s episode, we’re joined by actress and generational internet phenomenon Ivy Wolk (Anora, The English Teacher) to discuss her sartorial origins from roller derby to riot grrl to rockabilly, the sorry state of the Theatre, the evolving identity of the character actor, the cult mystique of a volatile decade-long online presence, and why cultural curiosity may be the closest thing we have to world peace. Ivy also weighs in on the uncanny e-girl invasion of the latest Guess campaign and reflects on the spirit of authentic Angeleno style.

Links:

Ivy Wolk on Instagram

Theatre and Film on Tape Archive at NYPL for the Performing Arts

Mike Tyson’s “fat and nasty” MAHA Super Bowl ad

Peloton’s Kendall Toole in viral “get ‘em banned” clip

Guess girl Instagam campaign

In this edition of Study Break, we survey the triumph and tragedy of the 2026 Grammys and deliver our official assessment of the Momania (The Moment + Melania) double feature. The declaration of war on Sombr is formally expanded to include newcomer Olivia Dean, and the strange theater of Latino representation in Hollywood comes under review. Elsewhere, several urgent notes are issued to the pop music PR puppeteers who seem to have lost motor control of talents like Jelly Roll and Billie Eilish. We also unpack the honky tonk heartbreak of Bella Hadid and Adan Banuelos, Gaga’s McQueen resurrection, Justin Bieber’s soulful Captain Underpants realness, the newest wave of Windrush Generation excellence, and more!

Links:

Sacheen Littlefeather accepting an Oscar on behalf of Marlon Brando

Adan Banuelos Arrested for Public Intoxication

Bella Hadid dancing in a Honky Tonk with Adan Banuelos

Theo Von on Jelly Roll Acceptance Speeches

Zillennial Cozy Funk Wedding

In this week's episode, we examine a specific brand of dark femininity that feels like a vestige of 2016, embodied through dramatic imagery of luxury accessories, cartoon vixens, and predatory wildlife, and expressed through a paradoxical strain of man-hating male centrism. We discuss this aesthetic’s positioning in opposition to the Clean Girl and how interpersonal dynamics popularized by sex work inform its understanding of power and money. We also investigate why the dark feminine resonates so deeply among women of the so-called “Latina belt,” drawing connections to chola culture and Arabic literary traditions to explore how this affect functions as a negotiation between patriarchal tradition and Western ideas about female sexuality and autonomy. Finally, we identify the aesthetic’s greatest arbiters and muses, from Helmut Newton and Riccardo Tisci to Maddy Perez and BLACKPINK’s Lisa.Links:

Image board

Examples on Instagram, TikTok

Ralph Bakshi: A Forgotten Pioneer

Rihanna - B***h Better Have My Money (Explicit) (Official Music Video)

BbyMutha - RULES (Official Music Video)

Why Men Love B*****s: From Doormat to Dreamgirl by Sherry Argov

“How the Cholo Clown Became the Face of L.A.” by Frank Rojas for LA Times (“Smile Now, Cry Later” history)

Viral Alexa Demie Yo Voy clip

Ghazal History – Encyclopaedia Iranica

BLACKPINK’s Lisa introduces “Vixi”

@shopnou_ on Instagram

“The Wild World of Chris von Wangenheim” by Daisy Woodward for AnOther

Chris von Wanghenheim on TheFashionSpot

“Pomellato Revives Helmut Newton’s Daring ’80s Campaigns in a New Show” by Annie Davidson Watson for W

Ricardo Tisci by Donatella Versace for Interview

Givenchy Fall 2011 Menswear on Vogue Runway

Givenchy Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear on Vogue Runway

Givenchy Fall 2011 Ready-to-Wear on Vogue Runway

In the first Study Break of the year, Biz and Sam survey the state of the world refracted through the prism of pop culture. They discuss Odessa A’Zion’s wig allegations, the hypernormal clownery of Nicolas Maduro’s kidnapping, Bella Hadid’s blonde hair omen, and the pop-princess perfection of Zara Larsson. Plus: a meditation on time in the second quarter of the 21st century, viewed through the anamorphic looking glass of Hollister’s 2016 anachronism, Cameron Winter’s Dorian Grey agelessness, and North West’s prodigious beat-making potential.

Links:

Hollister’s Tumblr Drop

2016 Revisionism

Stateside + Zara Larsson by Pink Panthress

North West’s Beatmaking Sample

Cameron Winter at Carnegie Hall

Bella Hadid for Dazed MENA

@shop_reallifeasliv

Carnival Time, Hardness, and the Machines That Process Excess by Sachin on Substack

Work-Hardened Archetypes by Sachin on Substack

Venezuelan Oil Explainer in The Guardian

Enhanced Oil Recovery Techniques

Oil Company Pushback in The Guardian

Who is Zach Bryan’s Wife?

Rama Duwaji Profile in The Cut

Previous Episodes Referenced:

Ep. 76: Get Silly

Ep. 24: The Snapocalypse

Ep. 25: America (with Light Townsend Cummins)

This week, we herald the coming of the Pastel Grunge Revival, a new wave of candy-colored femininity characterized by an eclectic and deliberately unsettling fusion of childlike innocence and overt sensuality. We discuss the style’s influences— soft grunge Tumblr imagery, cartoon nostalgia, Harajuku fashion, sex worker style, and more— and unpack the social functions of age regression, self-objectification, and homosocial fantasy that resonate with young women online. We also provide a brief overview of pastels in visual culture from the 1950s to present, and we explore the myriad reasons why this aesthetic emerged from Los Angeles in particular.

Special thank you to Monica @finalformfemale for this episode idea!!

Links:

Image board

Ashley Williams – Vogue Runway

f5ve – I Choose You (Official MV)

PGR It Girls and Creative Forces Masterlist: Mazzy Joya, Savannah Hudson, Miss Madeline and Chase Icon, Cannelle, ADÉLA, Manon Macasaet, Lexi Kingery, Kennedy Dechet, Natasha Somerville, Aerin Moreno

Shopbluedream.us and @shopbluedream on Instagram for an inspired selection of PGR clothing

Misc. PGR brands: Lovett, OGBFF, OMIGHTY, Poster Girl, I.AM.GIA, Poison Candy Apple, WeedSlut

TikToks of girls posting their younger selves to sad songs

Accidentally getting a job as a stripper in Japan TikTok storytime

fakemink - Easter Pink (Prod Suzy Sheer) (Official MV)

Rhode remakes Richard Avedon’s iconic Versace 1994 campaign

OG Soft Grunge It Girls: Joanna Kuchta, Shelby Hamilton aka meowshelbs, Erika Kamano fka Erika Bowes

Gwen Stefani and the Harajuku Girls (2005)

Nicki Minaj explains Harajuku Barbie (2009) (+ Nicki’s iconic pastel necklaces by ONCH)

Rapper CeeChynaa shows off her vintage doll collection

After a brief hiatus, the Nymphies are BACK!! In this annual ceremony, we honor 2025’s greatest achievements in fashion and culture with awards from us at the Nymphet Alumni Academy of Arts and Sciences, including categories such as Best and Worst Rebrand, Outfit of the Year, Best Sillyboy, and Best Brainrot Trend, featuring exclusive access to our careful deliberation process. We lay to rest dearly departed aesthetics of years past, and we end the evening by announcing the winner of the prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award, immortalizing one true legend in the Nymphet Alumni canon. For the first time, we’ve also tallied up your votes for the Reader’s Choice Awards!

In this episode, we’re joined (again!!) by Avery Trufelman, the grand dame of fashion podcasting, to discuss the latest installment of her podcast, Articles of Interest, titled Gear. In this meticulously researched series, Avery dives deep into the history of tactical/outdoor fashion and the ways in which the United States Military and the world of high-tech performance wear continuously influence each other. She answers our pressing questions about American frontier cosplay, the symbolism of the modern field jacket, the innovations behind lightweight tech, and why gear has reemerged as a major fashion language. We also touch on the future of patriotism ahead of the country’s 250th anniversary and the rise of meme-ified military archetypes among Gen Z.

Links:

Articles of Interest on Substack

In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the return of press tour psychodrama surrounding Wicked: For Good, the concerning midwittery of the Met Gala’s recent theme announcement, DLlegations in the highest office of the nation, and profiles in infidelity and iMessage confessionalism featuring Olivia Nuzzi and Lily Allen. We also review Vanity Fair’s latest Hollywood issue while reflecting on the bygone golden age of Hollywood ensemble editorials, and we launch a counteroffensive against Sombr in his war on 25-year-olds.

Links:

Vanity Fair’s 2026 Hollywood Issue: “Let’s Hear It For the Boys”

Twilight cast for Vanity Fair December 2008

“Hollywood’s Next Wave” in Vanity Fair August 2008 (feat. Kristen Stewart, Amanda Seyfried)

“It’s Raining Teens” in Vanity Fair July 2003

Druski + Timothee Chalamet hold auditions for Coulda Been Records in Brooklyn

Viral Sombr concert review on TikTok + Sombr’s response

PyjamaMann (Johnson Wen)

Anime cardboard cutouts kid (Tobyn Jacobs)

Bob Army – Saturday Night Live sketch on YouTube

Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Spring 2026 Press Release – “Costume Art”

Ken Burns | This Past Weekend w/ Theo Von #615

“I Left My Home” US Army Cadence on TikTok

Cassius Thundercock on KnowYourMeme

Nicki Minaj speaks at the United Nations on behalf of the Trump administration

“Postscript to an Open Marriage: On Lily Allen’s West End Girl” by Jean Garnett – The Paris Review

“Olivia Nuzzi Did It All for Love” by Jacob Bernstein – The New York Times

Ryan Lizza on Substack

Red Lobster CEO Damola Adamolekun

Ice Spice - Big Guy (from The SpongeBob Movie: Search for SquarePants) on YouTube

In this week’s episode, we develop a theory of Scientifica, a fashion aesthetic that borrows from the visual language of science, with influences ranging from Victorian taxonomy to Utopian Scholastic nostalgia to legacy science-fiction world-building. We examine recent manifestations of this impulse—runway shows that feel like scientific exhibitions or presentations, references to astronomical phenomena and archival display, and couture idealization of intellegentsia femininity—and question what it means when the fashion world aligns with objective inquiry and institutional knowledge in the face of epistemological crisis.

Links:

“The Universe According to Timothée” by Mattie Kahn, shot by Annie Leibovitz – Vogue (December 2025 cover story)

Chanel Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear by Matthieu Blazy

“The pioneering ‘great men’ of Victorian science were once attacked for being unmanly” by Heather Ellis – The Conversation

“Victorian Egyptomania: How a 19th Century Fetish for Pharaohs Turned Seriously Spooky” – History Answers

Utopian Scholastic – Consumer Aesthetics Research Institute

“Understanding the Japanese Influences Behind Star Wars” by Ollie Barder – Forbes

Overview of Pseudoarchaeology

“The Complicating Role of the Private Sector in Space” by Victoria Samson – Bulletin of the Atomic Scientists

“Goodbye, $165,000 Tech Jobs. Student Coders Seek Work at Chipotle” by Natasha Singer – The New York Times

College Board Research Brief on U.S. High School Students’ Use of Generative Artificial Intelligence

“Historians See Autocratic Playbook in Trump’s Attacks on Science” by William J. Broad – The New York Times

Protecting Freedom of Science and Preventing Distortion of Scientific Truth: A Statement of Concern from the Catholic Church’s Pontifical Academy of Sciences

Tech oligarch freakshow: Elon Musk says AI is more dangerous than nukes, Peter Thiel’s creepy ahh lectures on the Antichrist, Sam Altman creepy ahh references to an AI kill switch

Vogue Paris December 1998/January 1999 Discussion – TheFashionSpot

The Price of Illusion: A Memoir by Joan Juliet Buck

Prada’s spacesuit design for Axiom Space, “the world’s first commercial space station”

“As Prada Pairs With NASA, a Look at the Best Space-Inspired Looks From the Runway” by Laird Borrelli-Persson – Vogue

“Was Timothée Chalamet’s Vogue Cover Really So Out of This World?” by Jacob Gallagher – The New York Times

“Michelle Obama Is the Perfect Partner in Matthieu Blazy’s Modern Chanel Suiting” – Vogue

Venice W. Spring–Summer 2026: Sparkling Sea (Symposium)

In this episode, we are honored to be joined by pop princess and fashion icon Kim Petras to discuss the world of inspiration behind her newest project, especially the Fashioncore anthem heard around the world, “I Like Ur Look.” Kim walks us through her formative fashion memories, from aspirational MTV programming to inaugural designer grails, and tells us about her latest archival obsessions, including her special connection to Marc Jacobs-era Louis Vuitton. We also discuss the tension between authenticity and reinvention, the heritage of electronic music in Europe, our proposal for party reform, and more.

Links:

Kim Petras on Instagram

Kim Petras HQ

Kim Petras - I Like Ur Look (Official Music Video)

Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton (dir. Loïc Prigent)

In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the ragebait spectacle of Paris Fashion Week, darksided news from Hollywood featuring Tilly Norwood and D4vd, lives of showgirls everywhere from Taylor Swift’s possible schizophrenia diagnosis to Addison Rae’s vintage scream queen moment to Zara Larsson’s sublime vocal talent, and the cultural warfare fallout of Bad Bunny’s road to the Super Bowl. Sam also reviews Paul Thomas Anderson’s One Battle After Another and we discuss the curious case of Chase Infiniti.

Links:

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring 2026 by Duran Lantink

Cardi B “she was so happy to look a mess” Tweet (Gypsy Sport Spring 2016)

Balenciaga Spring 2026 by Pierpaolo Piccioli

Maison Margiela Spring 2026 by Glenn Martens

“When Did New York Fashion Week Get So Boring?” by Rachel Seville Tashjian for The Washington Post

Ben Doctor Spring 2026

Keith Urban and Maggie Baugh affair rumors amid Nicole Kidman split

Tilly Norwood Official Website

“Hollywood is Already Falling Behind on AI Video” by Lucas Shaw for Bloomberg

“Everything We Know About D4VD” – Billboard

Chase Infiniti’s K-pop dance cover of “OMG” by NewJeans

Addison Rae’s performance in Ryan Murphy’s Monster: The Ed Gein Story

Addison Rae performs “Diet Pepsi / New York” on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon

Taylor Swift explains her song “Actually Romantic”

“Irony and Proverb Comprehension in Schizophrenia: Do Female Patients ‘Dislike’ Ironic Remarks?” in Schizophrenia Research and Treatment

Zara Larsson on Sweden’s Got Talent in 2008

El Chavo Del Ocho (English Version) - Saturday Night Live starring Bad Bunny

This week on Nymphet Alumni, Biz is joined by journalist and author Marisa Meltzer to talk about her new book It Girl: The Life and Legacy of Jane Birkin — the first comprehensive biography of the actress, singer and myth-muse. The two get into the making of Birkin’s image and the unseen real life behind it, plus how aging, style and selfhood intersect. Also discussed: the horrors of Serge Gainsbourg’s man-cave, Timothee Chalamet as inheritor of the Jane B legacy, and why swag might just come from getting older.

Links:

It Girl: The Life and Legacy of Jane Birkin by Marisa Meltzer (Out now!)

Soft Power by Marisa Meltzer

Marisa Meltzer

In this episode, Alexi is joined by writer, editor, and dear friend Olivia Kan-Sperling to discuss the aesthetic universe of her brand new novel, Little Pink Book, a lyrical and decadent romantic tragedy set in Shanghai. In unpacking her wide range of influences, we explore shabby chic Orientalism, avant garde florists, Chinese romantasy web novels, baroque bespoke beverages, the emerging field of Wasian studies, the triggering qualities of Clairo’s “Pretty Girl” music video, the possibility of Labubu as a literary format, and much more.

Links:

Image board

Little Pink Book by Olivia Kan-Sperling from Simon and Schuster

Olivia’s website

Olivia on Instagram @dianadiagram

Alexi’s interview with Olivia in Interview magazine

Diane Severin Nguyen: In Her Time (Iris’s Version)

Empire of Signs by Roland Barthes

Molly Tea’s domineering CEO romance receipt promo via Dr. Candise Lin

The Architecture of Taste by Pierre Hermé - Lecture to the Harvard Graduate School of Design (2013)

Julian Castronovo review of Little Pink Book in BOMB magazine

Shanzhai: Deconstruction in Chinese by Byung-Chul Han

In this episode, we welcome back none other than the “Freud of Fashion” herself, Dr. Valerie Steele, to discuss the Museum at FIT’s latest exhibition, Dress, Dreams, and Desire: Fashion and Psychoanalysis. Dr. Steele walks us through central theories on mirrors, masquerade, and eroticism, exploring the deep-seated fears and fantasies that drive what we wear. We dissect how the theories of Lacan and Freud play out on the bodies dressed by Schiaparelli, McQueen, Versace, and many more fashion history greats. Links: Visit Dress, Dreams, and Desire: Fashion and Psychoanalysis at the Museum at FIT (up until January 4, 2026)!

Register for the Fashion and Psychoanalysis Symposium at the Museum at FIT, Friday November 14th!

Audio Analysis for Dress, Dreams, and Desire (four items)

In this emergency roundtable report, we discuss how clownery has become a dominant mode of aesthetic and ideological expression, perhaps symbolizing the defeat of authenticity. Recent carnivalesque incidents include the chaotic spectacle of this year’s VMAs, the meteoric rise of the Savannah Bananas, Jay Guapo’s Italian Brainrot Block Party, the political role reversal of the troll and the triggered, Audrey Hobert’s debut album Who’s the Clown, and more.

Links:

Top Clown Town outfits at the VMAs: Conan Gray in Erik Charlotte, Megan Stalter as hot dog vendor, Doja Cat in Balmain, Ariana Grande’s outfit changes, Sabrina Carpenter in Valentino

Sabrina Carpenter Performs “Tears” | 2025 Video Music Awards

“I need to see you spin first, sista” from Sex and the City S4 E18

Chappell Roan Performs “Pink Pony Club” (Live From The 67th Grammy Awards)

“Chappell Roan on the Queer Origins of her Signature Makeup Look” – Gay Times

Flash Mob! The Savannah Bananas Crash The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon

“As Savannah Bananas ursue ‘a billion fans,’ are they real competition for MLB?” – The New York Times

Jay Guapo’s Brainrot Block Party

Tyler Robinson’s bullet casing inscription breakdown – PBS News Hour

The story behind FBI Director Kash Patel’s seemingly random ‘Valhalla’ reference

Trump’s presidential portraits from 2017 to 2025

“What Is ‘Dark Woke’?” – The New York Times

“Why has Gavin Newsom gone ‘dark woke’?” – BBC

Mexican influencer Marian Izaguerre dies after posting goodbye video in clown makeup

Audrey Hobert Who’s the Clown interview in Teen Vogue

“The Clown at Midnight: Coulrophobia, Counterculture, and the Decadent Pierrot Mask” by Samuel Love – Sequitur

Passages from Mikhail Bakhtin on the grotesque body and the carnivalesque sense of the world

This week, we discuss the glamorous world of the Magazine Girl, dissecting the real and fictional lives of women who worked at glossy magazines during their heyday. Through profiles of icons including Diana Vreeland, Anna Wintour, Franca Sozzani, Carine Roitfeld, and Plum Sykes, we distill the shared qualities that made these women so foundational to high fashion media. Inspired by Anna Wintour’s recent resignation and the buzz around The Devil Wears Prada sequel, we also ponder who, if anyone, carries on the Magazine Girl legacy today.

Links:

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“The Divine Mrs. V” by Eleanor Dwight for New York

“Who is Plum Sykes?” by Taylore Scarabelli for Interview

“The Plum and Lucy Show” by Bob Morris for The New York Times

The Price of Illusion: A Memoir by Joan Juliet Buck

Assorted costumes from The Devil Wear Prada 2 in Dazed

“Anna Wintour: Behind the Shades” interview for CBS

Controversial Plum Sykes clip

Carine Roitfeld interview for The Guardian

“Could You Have Landed a Job at Vogue in the ‘90s?” Quiz in The New York Times

Anna: The Biography by Amy Odell

Interview with Anna Wintour biographer Amy Odell in Hunger

A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life In Fashion, Art, and Letters by Penelope Rowlands

Excerpts from Diana Vreeland’s Why Don’t You column in British Vogue

Franca Sozzani obituary in Vogue

“The Condé Empire Was One Big Beautiful Grift” by Emilia Petrarca on Substack

In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the suspiciously overblown controversy of Sydney Sweeney’s AE ad spot, our box office takes on Ari Aster’s Black Lives Matter COVID Western and the new Superman, fascinating late night musical debuts from Pinkpantheress and Jessie Murph, the summer of female sexual aggression, our love of senior dating and romance, and more.

Links:

Sydney Sweeney Has Great Jeans – American Eagle

Brooke Shields Calvin Klein Jeans Commercial (1980)

Biz on the genes/jeans of it all

Sydney Sweeney as Lacanian super predator tweet

@default_friend on AE’s busted copy

“The Disembodied Body of Marilyn Monroe” by Wendy Lesser

There You Are: Brad Pitt for Chanel No. 5 Commercial

Pamela Anderson and Liam Neeson editorial for You magazine

Liam Neeson racism backlash

“Sex After 60 in Sag Harbor” by Candace Bushnell for New York magazine

A24’s Eddington dir. Ari Aster – Official Trailer

“Everyone Wants a Piece of Pedro Pascal” – Vanity Fair cover story

“Can David Corenswet Save Superman?” – GQ cover story

Ryan Murphy Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy styling backlash

“Golden” from K-Pop Demon Hunters hits No. 1 on Billboard

PinkPantheress: Illegal/Girl Like Me/Tonight Medley on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon

Rhythm Heaven music edits by @therealstoinkle

Jessie Murph: 1965 on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon

Chappell Roan - The Subway (Official Music Video)

Sabrina Carpenter brings out Earth, Wind & Fire at Lollapalooza

Manon and Lara of KATSEYE lez out on stage at Lollapalooza

Rachel Zegler’s gratitude surge at Evita curtain call

RFK Jr. launches federal crackdown on 7-OH

Lola Young - One Thing (Official Music Video)

This week on Nymphet Alumni, Biz interviews New York newsletter phenom and Feed Me founder Emily Sundberg. They discuss the West Village-ification of America, the curious case of Hamptons face and what’s aspirational to young people in New York in 2025. Plus, Emily shares her advice on how to find your voice and how to protect your digital soul.

In this week’s episode, we explore the cryptic and chaotic world of Opium, the record label founded by Playboi Carti in 2019 that has since evolved into a full-blown subculture of chronically online and fashionably darksided super-fans. From botched merch capsules and vampire cosplay to early TikTok dances and baby mama drama, we descend the Opium iceberg and trawl the Cartinese dark web in attempt to understand the Chrome-bejeweled and Rick-adorned figures shaping youth culture in their image. Links:

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r/playboicarti on Reddit

Opium (Record Label) on KnowYourMeme

“Playboi Carti Against His Own Game” by Nolan Kelly – Spike Art Magazine

“Playboi Carti and His Offspring Ponder Life After Rage-Rap” by Jon Caramanica – The New York Times

Is Playboi Carti Rap’s Next—or Last—Rap Superstar? – Popcast

“The Rowdy World of Rap’s New Underground” by Jon Caramanica – The New York Times [PHOTOS]

Misc. video essays on YouTube:

* The Opium Aesthetic Explained

* The Rise of Opium: Playboi Carti's Unstoppable Label

* The Opium Iceberg Explained

“Will Playboi Carti Ever Drop His New Album?” – Rolling Stone

NEVEREVER by Ken Carson kitten videos on TikTok

“The History of Playboi Carti’s Baby Voice” by Greg Gaffney – Complex

Ranking Playboi Carti Ad-Libs

“Playboi Carti Emoji Combos

“Playboi Carti on His Cut-and-Sew Fashion Line ‘Narcissist’” – Paper Magazine

“5 Things You Should Know About VLONE” – NSS Magazine

Biz on 2hollis

In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the mass psychosis of Love Island USA, major couture debuts at Dior and Celine, the sauceless hypergamy parable of Celine Song’s Materialists, Cate Blanchett’s chilling epilogue cameo in Squid Game, and current Latina affairs from Katseye’s “Gabriela” to the Sanchez-Bezos midlife nuptial extravaganza. We also review Addison’s stadium debut at Wembley and report on courtroom happenings including Sean “Diddy” Combs and Min Hee-jin.

Love Island USA Hearts on Fire Challenge – Teaser on YouTube

Cierra Ortega apology video on YouTube

@loveislandusastyle on Instagram

“Cierra & Vanna & Ethics & Vanity” – The Review of Beauty by Jessica DeFino

Bad tattoos on Love Island USA

The New York Times on the Sean “Diddy” Combs Verdict

Tiny Harris reacts to the Diddy verdict on Instagram

Dior Homme Spring 2026 Menswear (J. W. Anderson debut) – Vogue Runway

Celine Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear (Michael Rider debut) – Vogue Runway

Marc Jacobs Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear – Vogue Runway

“Materialists Costume Designer Talks About Style Symbolism” – The Zoe Report

Cate Blanchett cameo in Squid Game finale on YouTube

KATSEYE (캣츠아이) "Gabriela" Official MV on YouTube

The Daytona Wind Acting Challenge from RuPaul’s Drag Race Season 14 on YouTube

Lauren Sanchez and Jeff Bezos Wedding Exclusive – Vogue

Addison Rae opens for Lana del Rey at Wembley

NewJeans / HYBE / ADOR / Min Hee-Jin Megathread on Reddit

In this edition of Study Break, in which we subtly celebrate Sam’s birthday, we discuss a variety of women’s issues: the discourse meltdown brought on by Sabrina Carpenter’s chauvinist comeback and her aesthetic shift from pastels and pin-ups to Helmut Newton and Halston; the mass crisis of female reproductive unwellness; Addison Rae’s kaleidoscopic showgirl debut; and the upsetting regression of Sydney Sweeney’s bathwater hustle. We also discuss some boy issues: Luigi Mangione’s lovably centrist birthday dispatch from prison, putting the Guy Fawkes mask on and embracing Redditism, Trump and Elon’s toxic yaoi best friend breakup, and more.

To stay subscribed to exclusive episodes and all the glamour of our premium content, head to https://www.nymphetalumni.com/subscribe and add your payment info

In this episode, we oscillate between antebellum steamboat grifters and prosperity gospel televangelists to unpack the archetype of the American con man: a self-made myth-maker cloaked in charisma, uniqueness, nerve and talent. We discuss itinerant preachers, LA hypebeast cyber-apostles, Herman Melville, identity theft, April Fool’s Day, man-on-the-street content creators, jewelry dropshippers, and more, tracing the legacy of scammers through primary sources from 1850s op-eds to influencer snark pages.

Links:

This week on Nymphet Alumni, Alexi interviews Angel Money, New York nightlife darling and visionary of beauty and commerce. Over the course of more than two hours, we discuss her past life as a Tumblr-famous pale grunge blogger, her balance between New Age spirituality and hedonistic abundance, her intimate knowledge of custom Chinese manufacturing, her fashion controversies from cultural appropriation to exotic animal pelts, mad scientist gray market beauty treatments, the implicit influence of trans aesthetics on 21st century femininity, the mental and physical architecture of transsexuality, and much more. Angel also shares her exclusive recipes for a perfect night out—including her precise methodology for a 48-hour glam—and her high-fantasy vision for the ultimate immersive nightlife experience.

Links:

Listen to Money Talks with Angel Money

Angel’s Share – Document Journal

Angel Money on Instagram

Angel Money on Twitter

In this episode, we’re joined by the legendary Emily Segal: writer, artist, cultural clairvoyant, and co-founder of K-HOLE and Nemesis. We talk about her brand-conscious NYC upbringing and art school education-by-osmosis, AI and telepathy, the collapse of unified worldviews, and what it means to be a creative director when every pair of jeans is trending at once. Emily also unearths the lost downtown dream of Chumbo and unpacks for us the group polarization and identity negotiation of contemporary parenting culture.

Links:

NEMESIS on Substack

K-HOLE

Emily Segal on Instagram

The Generational Triennial: Younger Than Jesus at The New Museum

Wolff Olins

Matan Even on YouTube

Mother Media: Hot and Cool Parenting in the Twentieth Century by Hannah Zeavin

IDEO

In this episode, we introduce the concept of whimsimod to explain the recent trend of pattern-printed and adorably tailored fashion among sensitive indie starlets and Instagram baddies alike. In the process of unpacking this polished yet playful re-envisioning of femininity, we discuss the aesthetic shift from “kiki” to “bouba” over the past year, the history of girly youth diffusion lines like RED Valentino and Blugirl, the current hemline crisis and the accompanying novelty hosiery movement, seminal lady designers including Carolina Herrera and Kate Spade, and more. We also provide a forensic cultural history of the polka dot throughout the decades.

Links:

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“The Power Of Two Claires: Miss Claire Sullivan Talks Designing Clairo’s Grammys Look” — Nylon

“Reflections of Clairo” by Clairo — Byline

beabadoobee — “Beaches” Jimmy Kimmel Live performance on YouTube

beabadoobee slayful Getty Image

Patternalia: An Unconventional History of Polka Dots, Stripes, Plaid, Camouflage, & Other Graphic Patterns by Jude Stewart

“The Polka Dot’s Past Is Weirder Than You Think” by Nancy MacDonell — The Wall Street Journal

Blondita, Lauren Perrin, Ben Doctor, Lucila Safdie

TJ Maxx psychosis monologue TikTok (?)

Miu Miu Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection — Vogue Runway

Addison Rae’s polka dot catsuit by Miss Claire Sullivan at Coachella

Addison Rae Vogue France cover story

Disney Channel’s Former Costume Designer Doesn’t Get the Y2K Resurgence Either — Vogue

Paloma Sandoval on Instagram

“That’s So ’80s:” Wes Gordon Finds Treasures in a Scrapbook From Herrera’s Past — Interview

“Carolina Herrera: Portrait of a Lady” by Anamaria Wilson — Harper’s Bazaar

Lynn Wyatt's Glamorous Life: Celebrities, Couture, and Castles | Paper Trail on YouTube

@chloyorkcity’s 80’s Excess series on TikTok

Surrey glasses on EyeBuyDirect

“The Enduring Legacy of Kate Spade’s Witty, Misunderstood Life” by Rory Satran — The Wall Street Journal

Vogue’s extremely belated trend report on statement socks and tights at NYFW

“1960s-Style Tights Are Back. How to Wear Them in 2022.” by Nancy MacDonell — The Wall Street Journal

Cero Magazine Issue 9 — Kiko Kostadinov Special Edition featuring our interview with Laura and Deanna Fanning!

In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the emancipatory joy of Justin Bieber’s public glow-down, shocking displays of tactical romantic psychosis by girls online, the despair wrought by the all-female Blue Origin space flight, the self-titled musical bonanza of Addison and Jonatan, the subversive pots-and-pans earworm Gnarly by Katseye, reflections on Californian millennialism from HAIM to Meghan Markle, our field trip to Pope Francis’s memorial mass, and more.

To stay subscribed to exclusive episodes and all the glamour of our premium content, head to https://www.nymphetalumni.com/subscribe and add your payment info

In this solo debut episode, Sam introduces us to her fantastically anachronistic obsession: dinosaurs and their recurring impact on fashion and culture. From the “Bone Wars” of the Gilded Age to the fossilized postwar fantasy of The Flintstones to the mass Dinomania surrounding the release of 1993’s Jurassic Park, Sam explores paleontological and prehistoric aesthetics as a reflection of cultural anxieties and technological advancements. She also walks us through major fashion moments including Jeremy Scott’s electroclash cavewomen (S/S 2010) and Gucci’s retro roadside dinosaur encounter (F/W 2017).

In this very special video episode of Nymphet Alumni, we convene in Hell’s Kitchen to perform our first-ever mukbang. Filmed the evening after our tiki-themed Substack launch party, we attempt to recover with 30 Chick-fil-A nuggets, two Cokes, two large fries, one chicken sandwich, and six Crumbl cookies. Along the way, we unpack the economics of fast food franchising, explore the theological divide between Protestant and Mormon desserts, debate the integrity of Chick-fil-A’s pickle batter and more. Bon appétit!

In this episode, superstar model-actress-writer and certified Tumblr icon Hari Nef joins us to discuss the electric energy of the mid-2010s New York fashion scene— VFILES, Hood by Air, Eckhaus Latta, and more— and the collision of early online content and the fashion industry that birthed some of the most brilliant creative personae of our generation. We learn about Hari’s cutthroat electioneering of the Dazed 100, her double life of uptown collegiate excellence and downtown nightlife chaos, street casting in SoHo and shitposting on the main grid, reflections on a decade of woke ideology, and so much more. We also get exclusive scoop on Hari’s upcoming Candy Darling biopic!

Links:

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Hood By Air – FW 2014 Runway

Hood By Air – FW 2013 Runway

Kalifa (fka Le1f) profile in The Washington Post

Venus X on the origins of GHE20G0TH1K, a club night that shaped the 2010s – Dazed

VFILES Model Files Episode 5: Nodels (Not Models) on YouTube

VFILES Model Files Season 2 Episode 1: Save SoSo on Youtube

“Where Fashion Blogging Began” (Fashin F*gs profile) in The New York Times

Blythe Marks on Instagram

i-D Meets: Hari Nef on YouTube

Hari Nef for the Dazed 100

Hari’s scarily spot-on gay identity prediction tweet from 2014

Enigma (dir. Zackary Drucker) in Variety

@FilmUpdates announces the upcoming Candy Darling biopic

Hari Nef’s Hottest Fashion Opinions – The Run-Through with Vogue

@marcitlali’s legendary amish b***h Tumblr post

In our first exclusive episode on Substack (yay!), we discuss the Ibiza fashion craze, unpacking the sparkling, sunset-hued resortwear fantasy that looms over the coming summer. Using our revolutionary theory of “trickle-down Ibizanomics,” we leave no sequin unturned, from the couture treasure trove of Annie’s Ibiza to the injection-molded accessories of Amazon influencer storefronts. We analyze the aesthetic’s cultural context through the Balearic club scene’s seedy history, 2000s rom-com costuming, White Lotus hypergamy discourse, EDM tourism, traditional Indian fashion, the moodboard-to-stimboard-to-vision board pipeline, and more.

In this week's episode, we take a deep dive into Grisch, the fascinating niche style gaining traction among Sweden's affluent youth. Drawing on our listeners' firsthand accounts and a century of Scandinavian cultural history, we dissect its surprisingly long lineage— from fin-de-siècle dandies and Eurotrash dudebros to gangster rappers and old money influencers—all culminating in a high-stakes world of designer denim, puffer vests, and luxury low-profile sneakers. We ponder how the complex relationship between class, age, nationalism, and masculinity embodied by Grisch might result in its global domination.

Special thanks to Charles, Elsa, Justine, Iman, Matilda, Ebba, and Jesper for their insights! 

Links:
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Selected TikToks: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7
Chris Heyn Jr. on TikTok
eric_roth2 on TikTok
Marcus Rolf on TikTok
Your Ultimate Guide to Scandinavian Fashion by The Daily Scandinavian
About Us – Garde Grisch
De Vet Du – Sture P (Music Video) 
Peder Fogstrand aka Greven
"The Law of Jante" (on Janteloven) by Michael Booth for The Paris Review
The Murder of Einar (Swedish rap legend) – YouTube
Azealia Banks announces her move to Stockholm in Swedish radio interview
Yung Lean @subwaytakes Interview
Consumers that are middle and upper class in Nordic countries 2024 – Statista

In this episode, journalistic superstar Ezra Marcus joins us to chronicle his journey from the ashes of millennial digital media to the frontlines of today's most exciting investigative reporting. We extol his epic track record—the Sarah Lawrence sex cult, the culinary horror story of Horses, the galaxy gas epidemic, and more— and discover what draws him to the shady fraudster kingpins that personify online hustle culture. We also discuss the true crime documentary slop machine, moonlighting as a party-pumping DJ, the idea that men are the new women, and what it means to stand at the brink of the Chinese century.

Links:
Ezra Marcus's Website 
Ezra Marcus on Instagram
Some of Ezra's greatest hits:
The Next Drug Epidemic is Blue Raspberry Flavored 

The Package King of Miami

The Stolen Kids of Sarah Lawrence

The Cat Who Could Kill Horses

The ‘E-Pimps’ of OnlyFans

How Do You Make a Weed Empire?

In this edition of Study Break, we discuss the Hollyweirdness of the Oscars (notably that James Bond humiliation ritual), Pretty Little Thing's rebrand from Love Island resortwear to halal clean girl prison clothes, the Losercore undertones of Prada's FW 2025 show, the abjection of the Shrek 5 trailer and the gravity of Shrek's highbrow legacy, the revolt against millennial burger joints and craft breweries, plus Biz makes a special announcement.


Links:
James Bond Musical Tribute at the 97th Oscars (Lisa, Doja Cat, Raye)
Pretty Little Thing
Featured PLT monstrosities: sage tailored cropped blazer/dress, burgundy soft rib two piece set, grey bardot ruched dress
PLT founder Umar Kamani on their rebrand – Drapers
Boohoo/PLT/Nasty Gal class action settlement
Prada Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Vogue Runway
Shrek 5 Official Trailer on YouTube
Euphoria Season 3's "Silver Slipper" strip club
Kyle Gordon's "We Will Never Die" on TikTok
Millennial burger spot roast on TikTok
Tate McRae – Revolving door (Official Music Video)
Flew out to Atlanta TikTok storytime (Girl's POV)
Flew out to Atlanta TikTok storytime (Boy's POV)
Appalachian hair texture discourse on TikTok
Stephanie Soo/Rotten Mango Ash Trevino Deep Dive on YouTube

In this week's episode, we discuss the legacy of Losercore, an aesthetic of the late 90s and early 2000s that celebrated the awkwardness of young adulthood and the sartorial idiosyncrasies of social outcasts, from orthodontia and ill-fitting gym uniforms to wire-frame glasses and dishwater-blond hair. We analyze the socioeconomic conditions that led to this period of loser glorification, identify key players (Todd Solondz, Paul Dano), cinematic touchstones (Napoleon Dynamite, Little Miss Sunshine), and generational anthems ("Teenage Dirtbag," "Buddy Holly"), and reflect on how the Internet has transformed today's young losers into threats to themselves and others.

Links:

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"The Birth—and Maybe Death—of Yuppiedom" by Walter Shapiro for Time
"Loser: The Hero of the 1990s" by Grunge Included on Substack
The Trap by Adam Curtis
The Nineties by Chuck Klosterman
@yungkombucha420 on TikTok
"Americans Need to Party More" by Ellen Cushing for The Atlantic
"The Anti-Social Century" by Derek Thompson for The Atlantic
Loser Generated Content: From Participation to Exploitation by Soren Mork Petersen
Billie Eilish on having no friends
Celebrity with no friends blind item ("not Jessica Chastain")
Emma Chamberlain closet video
Bed rot talking stage TikTok / 
"Love in the Time of Bed Rotting" by Isabel Unhinged on Substack
"The Story Behind The Song: Beck and the crowning of the ‘Loser’ generation" – Far Out
Teenage Dirtbag – Wheatus (Offical Music Video)
Buddy Holly – Weezer (Official Music Video)
Losercore TikTok boys: Slushy Noobz, Thomathy, Ben Awad, William Conrad
Marc Jacobs, Circa 2003: Long Hair, Neck Brace & Sweaty (PHOTO)
Prada Spring/Summer 1996
Marc Jacobs Spring 1999
Marc Jacobs Fall 1999
Vetements Fall 2019 Menswear
Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2021 

"Gucci's Beautiful Losers Hit New York" – Business of Fashion
"The Book of Gucci According to Alessandro Michele" – 032c
"Student Teaches Teacher" aka Jeff Bliss aka Friggin Packet Yo (Original YouTube Video)
"Who's Afraid of Hasan Piker?" – Slate
"Still Life (Betamale)" by Jon Rafman
Party in their Blood – Cloudy Heart (Official Music Video)
Bully (formerly @bully.incel.simp.hero) 
Duane Hanson – Saatchi Gallery
Dadsgiving by Chris Maggio

This week, we are joined by special guest Evan Collins — architect, design archivist, and cofounder of Consumer Aesthetics Research Institute — for a conversation about the Institute's pioneering work in coining and defining the most fascinating aesthetics of the past half-century, including Indie Sleaze, Frutiger Aero, McBling, Whimsigothic, Shoe Diva, and many more. We discuss his foundational research into the Y2K aesthetic, the consumer incorporation of subculture, the challenges of community-based digital archiving, the benefit of researching ugly and unfashionable visual culture, and more.

Links:
Consumer Aesthetics Research Institute Official Website
CARI on Are.na
Evan Collins on Are.na
Evan Collins on Patreon (access to 700+ books and magazines!)
Art Deco of the 20s and 30s by Bevis Hillier
Blobjects and Beyond: The New Fluidity in Design by Steven Skov Holt and Mara Holt Skov