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Dressed: The History of Fashion

Dressed: The History of Fashion

With over 8 billion people in the world, we all have one thing in common: everyday, we all get dressed. Join fashion historians April Calahan and Cassidy Zachary in celebrating the who, what, when of why we wear throughout history and around the world.

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Episodes

Dressed Classic: Hanae Mori, an interview with Ayaka Sano

We revisit a 2021 episode with guest Ayaka Sano who joined us to discuss the early years of the career of Japanese designer Hanae Mori, the first Asian designer admitted to the ranks of French haute couture. Mori's career spanned five decades and the globe, enjoying international success thanks to her seamless and signature blending of euro-American styles with distinctively Japanese textiles and aesthetics. 

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2024-03-27
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Sweatshops and Shirtwaists: Remembering the Triangle Factory Fire, part II

In part II of this week's episode in commemorating the 113th anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire which occurred in Lower Manhattan on March 25, 1911, we examine how the fire started, hear from some of the survivors and learn about the sweeping labor reforms and worker protections which followed in its wake.

Recommended resources:

Cornell University's The 1911 Triangle Factory Fire online portal

PBS American Experience: Triangle Fire

Department of Labor/OSHA's The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire portal

Dedication of the Triangle Fire Memorial

Von Drehle, David. Triangle: The Fire that Changed America. New York: Grove/Atlantic Inc., 2003.

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2024-03-22
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Sweatshops and Shirtwaists: Remembering the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire, part I

As the 113th anniversary of the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory approaches in a few short days, this week we bring you a two-part episode on the nature of the New York City garment trade at the turn of the 20th century, and how a horrific workplace accident on March 25, 1911 reshaped the landscape of workers rights and protections.

Recommended resources:

Cornell University's The 1911 Triangle Factory Fire online portal

PBS American Experience: Triangle Fire

Department of Labor/OSHA's The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire portal

Von Drehle, David. Triangle: The Fire that Changed America. New York: Grove/Atlantic Inc., 2003.

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2024-03-21
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Fashion History Now #60

This week we chat about the latest in fashion history news including Norma Kamali training an AI to design her legacy, the Oscar nominees for Best Costume Design, a new YSL bookshop in Paris and some of the spectacular pieces up for sale at recent fashion auctions.

Recommended Resources:

Vogue ArchiveKillers of the Flower Moon article by Christian AllaireThe Art of Costume podcasts interview with Holly WaddingtonLight, Camera, Auction resultsBooks: Sheer: Yves Saint Laurent and The World According to Yves Saint LaurentNorma Kamali trains an AIYSL bookshop

?

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2024-03-15
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Dressed Classic: A Brief History of Prom

In the spirit of prom season being just around the corner, this week we return to a 2020 episode to learn to origins of one of quintessential rites of passage for American teenagers: attending prom. From its roots in debutante culture to its 1850s inception at Ivy League colleges that lead to prom becoming a high school phenomenon, the history of prom spans a surprising 175 years.

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2024-03-13
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The Nameplate: Jewelry, Culture and Identity with Isabel Attyah Flower and Marcel Rosa-Salas, Part II

We continue our conversation with Isabel Attyah Flower and Marcel Rosa-Salas about nameplate jewelry, addressing its central and even controversial role in both sub and mainstream cultural expressions, including hip hop. 

Recommended resources:

The Nameplate: Jewelry, Culture and IdentityDocumenting the Nameplate Instagram 

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2024-03-07
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The Nameplate: Jewelry, Culture and Identity with Isabel Attyah Flower and Marcel Rosa-Salas, Part I

Isabel Attyah Flower and Marcel Rosa-Salas join us to discuss their book The Nameplate: Jewelry, Culture and Identity, which celebrates the myriad of meanings embedded in the multi-cultural and cross-generational phenomenon of nameplate jewelry.

Recommended resources:

The Nameplate: Jewelry, Culture and IdentityDocumenting the Nameplate Instagram

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2024-03-05
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Fashion Fads from History: Live On or Leave to the Past?

In the wonderful and often bizarre world of fashion fads from history, we ask the question: which should live on to wear another day and which should be left to history?

Recommended resources:

Bedazzled BeetlesHobble SkirtPainted knees

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2024-02-29
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Front Row at the Margiela Show, an interview with Alexandre Samson

Maison Margiela's Spring/Summer Paris 2024 Haute Couture collection show delivered a haunting jolt that is hard to forget. Whether you loved the show or hated it, it was a moment. And that moment?which will undoubtedly go down in fashion history?was also packed with references to the history of fashion itself. Alexandre Samson, Curator of Haute Couture from 1947 to Contemporary Design at the Palais Galliera in Paris joins us to decode the collection.

April and Cassidy also address John Galliano's troubled history of anti-semitism and his restitutive work with the Anti-Defamation League who have publicly lauded the designer's "arduous work to change his world view."

Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 collection

Givenchy: The Complete Collections

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2024-02-27
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Mildred Blount: The Girl with the Golden Fingers, an interview with Taylor Bythewood-Porter

An exceptionally famous milliner in her day, the life and career of Mildred Blount has been somewhat lost to history. Curator Taylor Bythewood-Porter joins us to shine a light on the first African-American to be admitted to the Motion Pictures Costumers Union and her glorious on-screen creations for films including Gone With the Wind and Gigi as well as her offscreen successes designing hats for Hollywood stars and Harlem high society.

Mildred Blount Millinery Competition

Mildred Blount Scholarship Fund

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2024-02-24
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Madam C.J. Walker: An Interview with A?Lelia Bundles

In the early years of the twentieth century, Madam C.J. Walker built an international, Black hair care empire from the ground floor up, transforming herself from a laundry work making $1.50 a day to the woman Guinness World Records identifies as the ?first self-made millionairess.? This week, we learn all about her extraordinary life in an interview with her biographer?and great, great granddaughter?A?Lelia Bundles. 

Recommended Resources:

On Her Own Ground: The Life and Times of Madam C.J. Walker by A?Lelia Bundles Madam C.J. Walker?s website A?Lelia Bundles website

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2024-02-22
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Women Dressing Women, an interview with Mellissa Huber, part II

In part II of our episode on The Costume Institute's exhibition Women Dressing Women, co-curator Mellissa Huber takes us behind the scenes and shines a light on some of the invisible labor which does into mounting a major fashion in a museum. Can't make the show? Grab a copy of the amazing exhibition catalog here!

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2024-02-15
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Women Dressing Women, an interview with Mellissa Huber and Karen Van Godtsenhoven, part I

This week we are joined by Mellissa Huber and Karen Van Godtsenhoven, curators of The Costume Institute's exhibition Women Dressing Women, which is on view at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City through March 10, 2024. The exhibition explores more than 100 years of fashion history via the work of women designers and centers their contributions to the industry at large. Can't make the show? Grab a copy of the amazing exhibition catalog here!

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2024-02-13
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Handmade in NYC: The Art of Flower Making with Adam Brand of M&S Schmalberg

Fourth generation flower maker Adam Brand takes us behind the scenes of his family's business M&S Schmalberg. Founded by his family in 1916, the company is the last of its kind in America.

M&S Schmalberg's website and Instagram

Etsy store with a 20% discount just for Dressed listeners!

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2024-02-08
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Handmade in NYC: The Art of Pleating with George Kalajian of Tom's Sons International Pleating

Fifth generation master pleater George Kalajian?s family has been perfecting the art of the pleat since the 19th century. He joins us to discuss the past, present, and future of his family?s renowned pleating enterprise Tom?s Sons International Pleating, a staple of New York City?s Garment District since the 1970s.

Tom's Sons International Pleating's website and Instagram

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2024-02-06
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Dressing to Undress, an interview with Dita Von Teese, part 2

Our favorite vedette, Dita Von Teese, joins us this for part 2 of our conversation this week to chat about being the first-ever guest star at Paris' legendary cabaret, the Crazy House and her current residency in Las Vegas. Her show Dita Las Vegas: A Jubilant Revue is onstage now at the Jubilee Theater, formerly home to iconic acts including Frank Sinatra as well as the showgirl review Jubilee, which ran for 40 years. Dita chats with us about reviving many of the original Jubilee costumes which were designed by Bob Mackie in the 1970s.

Past Dressed episodes of interest:

Fashion and the Showgirl, part 1

Fashion and the Showgirl, part 2

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2024-02-01
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Dressing to Undress, an interview with Dita Von Teese, part 1

We are kicking off our seventh season of Dressed in spectacular style as we are joined all this week by the one and only Dita Von Teese!

A longtime vintage collector and star of the neo-burlesque scene, Dita's impact on contemporary visual culture cannot be underestimated. In part one of this two-part episode, we chat about her relationship with vintage style on and off stage and some of the amazing designers she works with to create her unique brand of unparalleled glamour.

Past Dressed episodes of interest:

The Origin of the Poodle Skirt

The Incredible Origin of Cat-Eye Glasses

Fashion and the Showgirl, part 1

Fashion and the Showgirl, part 2

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2024-01-30
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Dressed Classic: The Origin of the Poodle Skirt

This week's mini-sode from the Dressed archive explores the story of Juli Lynne Charlot who created an instantly recognizable 1950s classic: the poodle skirt.

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2024-01-25
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Dressed Classic: The Incredible Origin of Cat-Eye Glasses

What do millionaires, harlequins and cigarettes have to do with the iconic cat-eye frame? Tune into this fascinating episode from the Dressed archive to find out.

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2024-01-24
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Dressed Classic: A History of the Paper Pattern Industry

This week we revisit our 2020 episode dedicated to the work of costume designer, fashion historian and expert on the history of paper patterns, Joy Spanabel Emery, who for many years also served as the Curator of the Commercial Pattern Archive at the University of Rhode Island. Her book A History of the Pattern Pattern: The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution is considered a definitive work on the topic, which we know is near and dear to many of our listeners' hearts!

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2024-01-18
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Dressed Classic: For the Love of Fashion, an interview with Hamish Bowles

This week we revisit our episode with fashion historian, couture collector, museum curator, author and Vogue Global Editor-at-Large, Hamish Bowles. He joined us in 2020 to share the childhood origins of his passion for fashion history and the building blocks of his extraordinary life and career.

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2024-01-17
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Dressed Classic, Fashion History Mystery #52: Driving Fashion

This week we explore the symbiotic relationships between modern women, fashion, and cars at the dawn of the twentieth century.

Recommended reading:

Dorothy Levitt's 1909 guidebook FIDM's "Traveling Duster" blogA'Lelia Bundles's On Her Own Ground: The Life and Times of Madam C.J. WalkerGeorgine Clarsen's Eat My Dust: Early Women ModeristsEmily Remus's A Shoppers? Paradise: How the Ladies of Chicago Claimed Power and Pleasure in the New Downtown

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2024-01-12
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Dressed Classic, Fashion History Mystery 42: Hook, Line, and Sink-Her, a History of Fishnets

How did a practical device for catching fish become a coveted and controversial fashion staple? This week, we explore the fascinating thousand-year plus history behind fishnets.

Recommended reading:

History of Hand-KnittingFab Fishnet Images from the 1950s/60s

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2024-01-09
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Dressed Classic: Mend!, an interview with Kate Sekules

Today we revisit our 2020 episode with Kate Sekules who joined us to chat about her book Mend!: A Refashioning Manual and Manifesto which details the history of mending, contemporary visible mending practices and offers tips and techniques to get readers started on their own mending adventures. You can find more on Kate's work at visiblemending.com.

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2024-01-04
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Dressed Classic: What the Tux?: an interview with Dr. Chloe Chapin

On the heels of New Year's Day, we revisit the 2019 episode on the history of not only men's suits and formalwear, but specifically the tuxedo. Congrats to our friend Chloe Chapin, who since this episode first aired, is now officially Dr. Chapin!

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2024-01-03
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Dressed Classic: The Red Dress Embroidery Project with Artist Kirstie Macleod

We revisit our interview with artist Kirstie Macleod who joined us in 2021 to share the stories behind The Red Dress Project, her then eleven year collaboration empowering women artisans from around the world to share their stories through embroidery. Fast forward to today and the now 14 year old project includes millions of stitches from the work of 380 embroiders from 51 countries.

Recommended resources:

The Red Dress Project's website and InstagramKirstie Macleod's website

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2023-12-28
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Dressed Classic: A History of the Vietnamese Nail Salon with Filmmaker Adele Pham

We revisit our episode with filmmaker Adele Pham, who joined us in 2021 to discuss her documentary film Nailed It, which explores the history and influence of Vietnamese American nail salons. 

Recommended link

More information on Nailed It can be found hereWatch Nailed It

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2023-12-27
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Dressed Classic: Norma Kamali is Invincible, part 2

This week we revisit our two-part episode with one of fashion's living legends, Norma Kamali, whose work has defined the American fashion scene for five decades. In this second part, Norma speaks about rebuilding her business after divorce and creative spaces in fashion in the wake of the pandemic.

Recommended Reading: Kamali, Norma and Susan Brown. Norma Kamali: I am Invincible. New York: Abrams, 2021.

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2023-12-21
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Dressed Classic: Norma Kamali is Invincible, part 1

This week we revisit our two-part episode with one of fashion's living legends, Norma Kamali, whose work has defined the American fashion scene for five decades. From her education as a fashion illustrator to building her brand from the ground up--not once--but twice, Kamali shares her thoughts on life, love and style.

Recommended Reading: Kamali, Norma and Susan Brown. Norma Kamali: I am Invincible. New York: Abrams, 2021.

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2023-12-19
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Dressed Classic: Remaking Fashion History: An Interview with John Bright

This week we revisit our interview with Academy Award-winning costume designer John Bright to discuss his prolific film and television career spanning five decades. A collector of historic fashion, John is also the founder and owner of the world's leading costume house Cosprop.

Further learning:

Explore The John Bright Collection hereJohn Bright Collection Instagram Cosprop London

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2023-12-14
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Dressed Classic: Supreme Glamour, an Interview with Mary Wilson

This week, we revisit the 100th episode of the show which we celebrated with Mary Wilson, founding member of The Supremes and author of the book Supreme Glamour. Ms. Mary joined us to discuss the evolution of the group's now iconic wardrobe and the integral role that fashion--and supreme glamour--played in the success of one of the greatest singing trios of all time.

Recommended reading:

Supreme Glamour by Mary Wilson and Mark



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2023-12-13
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Dressed Classic: Rewriting History, an interview with Fabiola Jean-Louis

This week we revisit a conversation with one of our favorite contemporary artists, Fabiola Jean-Louis, who rewrites history by photographing women of color in the historic silhouettes she painstakingly recreates from paper. Jean-Louis' work is currently on view at both The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City and the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum in Boston.

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2023-12-09
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Dressed Classic: A History of Glitter

This week we revisit our most popular Dressed episode ever! A symbol of glitz, glamour and celebration, we bring you a special holiday edition on the history of glitter.

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2023-12-04
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'Tis the Season III: History's Gift Hits (And Misses)

Join us for our now annual holiday party where we 'exchange' some of their favorite gifts from fashion's past and present.

Gifts you can gift!

Our very first online course What Women Wore to the RevolutionBooks for our bookshelf with over 100 of our favorite fashion history titles18th Century Beauty Box 18th Century Beauty Spots Pressed flower dye kit

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2023-11-30
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The Battle of Versailles: 50 Years Later with "Halstonette" Chris Royer

This week marks the 50th anniversary of one of American fashion's greatest moments: the Battle of Versailles. "Halstonette" Chris Royer joins us to discuss her first hand account of modeling in the now legendary fashion face-off between French haute couture and American design.

Want more Battle of Versailles?

The King of Sexy Cling: An Interview with Stephen Burrows The Magic of 1970s Fashion with Pat Cleveland, Part I and Part II Invisible Beauty: An Interview with Bethann Hardison Eleanor Lambert: Empress of 7th Avenue The Battle of Versailles, An Interview with Robin Givhan Robin Givhan's New York Time's Bestselling book The Battle of Versailles

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2023-11-28
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Fashion History Now #59

It's official!!! In today's episode we announce the launch of Dressed: The School of Fashion, chat about Prada's upcoming trip to the moon and recommend some fashion history newsletters to follow.

Recommendations:

Sign up for our first class: What Women Wore to the Revolution, Part IIKEA's Designer Towel Skirt Fashion Newsletters: Laura Beltran Rubio, Laura McLaws Helm, Jo Weldon

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2023-11-23
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Jane Austen's Wardrobe, an interview with Dr. Hilary Davidson

Have you ever pondered, 'but, what would Jane Austen wear?' We have all the answers for you in this episode, as Dr. Hilary Davidson joins us to talk about her two books: Dress in the Age of Jane Austen and Jane Austen's Wardrobe.

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2023-11-21
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Fashion History Now #58

In today's episode, we answer some listener mail about what is and what isn't fast fashion, discuss the documentary Unboxing Shein and chat about the latest news from The Met's Costume Institute.

Recommended:

Fashion Revolution Transparency Index

Good On You

The True Cost documentary

Unboxing Shein

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

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2023-11-16
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Ann Lowe: American Couturier, an interview with Elizabeth Way

Custom couturier to brides, debutantes and American socialites, including Jacqueline Bouvier and Marjorie Merriweather Post, The Saturday Evening Post once called Ann Lowe "society's best kept secret." Today, we explore the true breadth of Lowe's career with fashion curator Elizabeth Way who joins us to speak about her exhibition Ann Lowe: American Couturier, which is currently on view through January 7, 2024 at the Winterthur Museum in Delaware.

Recommended reading:  Way, Elizabeth, ed. Ann Lowe: American Couturier, New York: Rizzoli Electra, 2023.

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2023-11-14
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Fly: The Big Book of Basketball Fashion with Mitchell S. Jackson

Just as fashion is more than pretty clothes, basketball is more than just a game. Pulitzer Prize winning author Mitchell S. Jackson joins us to discuss why the relationship between fashion and basketball matters historically and today.

Purchase Fly: The Big Book of Basketball Fashion

Mitchell's website

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2023-11-09
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Invisible Beauty: An Interview with Bethann Hardison

Fashion luminary and trailblazing model, agent and activist Bethann Hardison joins us to discuss her life and legacy as explored in the new documentary Invisible Beauty.

More on the documentary Invisible Beauty Bethann's websiteOur Battle of Versailles interview with Robin Givan

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2023-11-07
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Fashioned by Sargent, an interview with Dr. Erica Hirshler, part 2

In part two of our 2-part episode on the MFA Boston's exhibition Fashioned by Sargent, art historian Dr. Erica Hirshler re-joins us to speak about some of Sargent's most famous works including Madame X and his sensuous portraits of male style icons of the day.

Recommended reading: Hirshler, Erica, et al eds. Fashioned by Sargent. Boston: MFA Publications, 2023.

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2023-11-02
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Fashioned by Sargent: an interview with Dr. Erica Hirshler, part 1

All this week, Dr. Erica Hirshler joins us to talk about the sartorial stylings of one of history's great painters of fashion, John Singer Sargent. In part one of this two-part episode, we learn a bit about Sargent's international upbringing and career as well as his sometimes dictatorial role in styling his sitters. The exhibition Fashioned by Sargent is currently on view at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston through January 15, 2024.

Recommended reading: Hirshler, Erica, et al eds. Fashioned by Sargent. Boston: MFA Publications, 2023.

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2023-10-31
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Fashioning the Gilded Age: Tariffs, Thieves, and TV with Dr. Elizabeth L. Block, Part II

Nothing gets between a woman and her fashion! Dr. Elizabeth Block joins us for part two of our episode on Gilded Age fashion in a discussion on fashionable smuggling, thievery, and the costumes of Gilded Age Season 2!

Get your hands on a copy of Dr. Block's book Dressing Up: The Women Who Influenced French Fashion here.

Relevant past Dressed episodes:

Smuggled in the Bustle: An Interview with Hind Abdul-Jabbar

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2023-10-26
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Fashioning the Gilded Age: The Women Who Influenced French Fashion with Dr. Elizabeth L. Block, Part I

Dr. Elizabeth Block joins us to discuss her book Dressing Up: The Women Who Influenced French Fashion which celebrates the lesser known figures behind the international success of the French haute couture in the late 19th century, most notably their elite American clientele who were driving forces of Gilded Age fashion.

Get your hands on a copy of Dressing Up: The Women Who Influenced French Fashion here.

Relevant past Dressed episodes:

The Vanderbilt Ball A Vanderbilt House Party--The Gilded Age Halloween Costumes and Fancy Dress

Want more Dressed: The History of Fashion? 

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2023-10-24
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What's In Your Closet, Emma P?: Jacques Cartier

This week we launch a new segment of Dressed! What's In Your Closet episodes will delve into the items in your closets. In our inaugural episode, we investigate listener Emma P's late 1940s jacket by the obscure brand Jacques Cartier.

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2023-10-19
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Let's Party Like it's 1889!: Etiquette of the Fête in Gilded Age New York

Anticipating the premier of The Gilded Age season 2 next week, we examine the practices and pitfalls of party etiquette of the American elite during the late 19th century.

Past Dressed episode: Call Me: The Perils of 19th Century Etiquette

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2023-10-17
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Fashion History Now #57

From 19th-century hand-embroidered laundry pillows to the fashion fantasy dreamscapes of Tilda Swinton and Tim Walker, we bring you the latest news from fashion history and fashion history in the making.

Recommendations:

Laundry pillow featured on @historicembroidery Facekinis Dressed episode A Brief History of SunscreenTriangle Shirtwaist Factory MemorialCornell's Remember the Triangle Shirtwaist FactoryTilda Swinton's Singer Sargent Inspired Fashion FantasyTilda Swinton in Orlando (1992)Tilda Swinton in 3000 Years of Longing (2022)Tilda Swinton/Olivia Saillard Impossible Wardrobes

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2023-10-15
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Fashion History Titles from the Dressed Bookshelf

We highlight a few of our favorite fashion history titles from the hundreds on the Dressed bookshelf.

Books discussed in today's episode:

Chinese Dress in Detail by San Fong ChanChina Adorned: Ritual and Custom of Ancient Cultures by Professor Deng QiyaoPatchwork: A World Tour by Catherine LegrandFashion Before Plus-Size: Bodies, Bias and the Birth of an Industry by Lauren Downing PetersCreating African Fashion Histories: Politics, Museums, and Sartorial PracticesVintage Fashion: A Complete Sourcebook by Nicky AlbrechtsenHow to Be Fabulous: Sustainable, Second-Hand Style on a Shoestring by Charlotte DallisonFashioning Submission: Documenting Fashion, Taste and Identity in WW2 Italy through ?Bellezza? Magazine by Silvia VacircaThe World According to Lee McQueenThe World According to Yves Saint LaurentYves Saint Laurent & ArtFashion and the Art of Pochoir

Past Dressed episodes discussed in today's episode:

The Fabric of Life: An Interview with Gee's Bend Quiltmaker Loretta Pettway BennettA History of Stoutwear, an interview with Dr. Lauren Downing-PetersFashion and the Art of Pochoir Africa Fashion with Dr. Christine Checinska Part I and Part IIFashion History Now #51: How to Shop for VintageLee Alexander McQueen: Mind, Mythos, Muse with Clarissa Esguerra and Michaela HansenFavorite Fashion History BooksFashion History Mystery #59: In Their Own Words: Autobiographies from Fashion's Greats

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2023-10-10
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Wear Next: Fashioning the Future, an interview with Clare Press, part 2

In part two of our episode with sustainability communicator Clare Press of the podcast Wardrobe Crisis, we discuss a whole host of innovators who are currently plotting fashion's brighter future. Her latest book, Wear Next: Fashioning the Future is out now!

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2023-10-06
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